Delhi’s hidden mystic haven for transgenders

It is believed that Maayi or Miyan Saheb was the sworn-sister of Khwaja Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki, a Muslim sufi mystic figure, and had some magical powers.

Among the seven ancient cities that combined make the contemporary Delhi, Mehrauli has always been special. It not only houses some of the most important historical sites including the Qutub Minar, Rajon ki Baoli and the Dargah of Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki among others, but also hides few ancient gems in its busy alleys. Nestled in between numerous shops of Mehrauli market, lies a small, green- coloured iron gate of ‘Hijron ki khanqah’, a Sufi spiritual retreat for the transgender community. This 15th century structure has numerous tales to narrate even as it is little known to the locals as well. One has to make lot of efforts to locate it.

“Those who knew about the place have either died or are too old to leave home,” says Naushad, 74,  a pan shop owner, as he points out the way to Khanqah.

As soon as one enters the Khanqah, there is a serene compound that comprises of 50 whitewashed graves of hijras (transgenders) buried here back in the Lodi period.  

“They are no ordinary graves. They are at least 800-years-old,” says Shri, a Hindu caretaker, who has been looking after the Khanqah for the past 30 years.

On the right side of the compound, is an elevated and decorated grave of Miyan Saheb or Maayi, a mystic figure for the hijras.

“This is the tomb of Maayi, the eldest of hijras resting here,” says Shri as he folds his hands and bows his head towards the grave.

Maayi’s real name is a mystery for everyone there. It is believed that Maayi was the sworn-sister of Khwaja Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki, a Muslim sufi mystic figure, who had some magical powers.

“Once Khawaja ji was returning from some office work when he saw Maayi for the first time. He was mesmerised by her beauty. Maayi was the most beautiful hijra ever. He immediately sent his men to bring her to his palace. But when they reached there and asked her to come with them, Maayi refused and said she’ll only come if Khwaja ji himself comes to take her,” Shri narrates.

“Impressed by Maayi’s boldness, Khwaja ji went to meet her. He talked to her for a while and sworn her as a sister for life and beyond,” he told, adding Khwaja ji realised that she was no ordinary woman.

“This land, where she was buried along with 49 other Hijras, was also gifted by Khwaja Saheb to her,” said Shri, who serves as the Khanqah without any remuneration. The place is now owned by Panna Haji, who lives in Kaliyar district of Uttarakhad.

“Panna Haji is 82 now. She hardly visits us as she is too old to come,” he said, adding her disciples from Turkman gate of old Delhi now look after the Khanqah and visit once in a year to collect money from the shops they have rented out for Rs 100 per month.