Exclusive: Dior remains in my DNA, says Kalyani Saha Chawla

In her hugely successful career, she worked with an array of brands and that understanding and hands-on knowledge helped her a great deal.

Kalyani Saha Chawla

From sketch board to the shelves — I have a 360 degree view with my past experience in export, dealing with luxury and high street retail giants, to running my own lifestyle boutique in Kolkata for years. I have learnt from the best, which is Experience. There are various nuances which are involved.”

She says that one can’t make a success today of anything unless one has a business acumen.

“I found Bollywood 10 ago, and turned the sari into gowns on the red carpet,” she adds. Over to the Diorissma...

What have been the challenges you faced in putting Dior on the map?

I won’t call it a challenge but a lot of work has gone into educating the Indian audience. Creating awareness of what the brand stands for. India is still in a very nascent stage when it comes to international luxury retail. International brands entered the market only 11 odd years ago. There was a lack of understanding and differentiation between brands and what each one represented, on a generic view perhaps.

In my efforts to entrench the brand on the Indian retail map, I’ve concentrated on editorials, through various mediums, which speak about the rich history of the brand, its legacy and heritage and Mr Dior’s thought process, which is carried through with every collection. India has a very discerning audience and there’s a great deal of interest in the brand. At the end of the day, my job is is to translate that awareness and interest into sales.

How have you managed to keep Dior up and running?

I’ve been very fortunate to have the support of the media. The Indian designer and their labels are extremely strong, and a country where the sari is not a costume but a regular outfit, the percentage of western-wear buyers are minuscule in comparison, and their focus commercially is the trousseau market, which is the most viable in a $36 billion business annually (the wedding market). Hence, I have tried in every way to penetrate that market, in means of these destination weddings which see a lot of western-wear and then there are destination birthdays too now!

Dior is the most visible brand in India and that has helped create interest resulting in sales. However, the market in India hasn’t grown as much as we expected. We do not have the requisite skill sets. Property retailers need to get into partnerships with brands, the overhead costs are ridiculous compared to sales in India. Besides, government policies only tend to hamper the business, which is a pity.

What inspires you to constantly reinvent yourself?

There’s so much happening. We have six seasons — two couture, two ready-to-wear, one cruise and one Prefall. Two men’s shows for each season as well. There’s no breathing space between these. Then there is awards season and film releases. Bollywood keeps me very busy — from editorials to appearances, there is so much to work around. Also, I have worked on the global strategies with an Indian adaptation often which has paid off.

How do you see the future of Christian Dior in India?

It’s a very loved brand and we have so much to offer — from entry level point of sales of sunglasses to costume jewellery to clothing and handbags. Dior has so much to offer at every level to keep the clientele lusting for more. There is something new every other month, be it a handbag or the sunglasses, which have gone viral. There’s always something to look forward to when you walk into a Dior boutique which is our biggest USP. Dior has been the most visible brand in India for the last 10 years.

How do you juggle work with family?

My parents and brother, live in Kolkata and I see a lot of them. We’re a close-knit family. I easily strike the balance thanks to the kind of support I get from my friends, who have been pivotal in my life as I don’t have any family in Delhi. My mother and I run an art gallery, we source artworks for private clients and bring awareness especially of Bengal Art, which there is still very little understanding of unfortunately. Being a serial entrepreneur all my life, I have successfully multi-tasked — export, art, Dior and being a mother.

I am venturing into my own consultancy of Brand management and Strategic Marketing even though I continue with Dior, I am excited about the interest it has garnered. I feel blessed to have built a reputation in the market with Dior. I have always multi tasked, and after giving up my export business five years ago, I have been restless to take up something else, as Tahira, my daughter is away in boarding school and I seem to have more time than necessary as I have always been spinning on my head and am uncomfortable with complacency! Dior is into a kind of system now. It’s a wheel that keeps spinning which I’ve put into motion.

Having said that, there is no compensation for hard work. I tell that to my daughter too! Nothing has ever come easy to me. I have had to work very hard and made a major sacrifice, which has been time with my daughter, which probably is my biggest regret, but I shall continue to strive on a path of new adventures, with many more miles to travel... while Dior remains in my DNA.

manish.mishra@dnaindia.net