Exploring Goa’s hidden side: Assagao is a village that offers a totally different experience

 “There are no shacks open?” The bewildered man sitting on the flight from Delhi to Goa sums up the confusion that a number of Indians – certainly most Delhiites – feel on a visit to the “city of fun” during the monsoon period. Used to a diet of shacks, cheap drinks, casinos and sandy beaches; the incessant rain and the fact that locals here advise long walks and quiet reflection is something that can come as a shock. As a result, a number of fellow travellers closet themselves away in five-star hotels, living on a diet of room service for a few days, before making the trip home. Goa thus becomes another holiday destination ticked off the checklist and talked about later to their friends at home. ‘Nothing special’ is the common refrain at this time.      

Different Side to Goa

Such an attitude is a shame as it ensures that travellers miss out on exploring a very different facet of Goa. For this, Assagao – a tiny village located in the north of Goa – is one of the best places to visit if you are truly looking for something different. A one and a half hour drive away from the airport, Assagao showcases a different side of Goa. Apart from the Portuguese-styled villas, the abundance of trees and neat roads marked with little signs makes you feel that you are in Enid Blyton’s Toytown. Of course, a screaming Tata Safari spoils the illusion once in a way but it’s a temporary phase. Assagao is Toytown waiting for you to explore and explore is what one does here. Long scenic walks accompanied by a tour guide is the recommended, indeed, the only course of action here. The thick forest vegetation makes Wi-Fi and even mobile calls a struggle here so the choice is simple – explore or leave for more familiar destinations in Goa.

Project Cafe

Hindus-Christians bhai bhai

A guided walk tour of Assagao with local experts is revealing and removes some of the ‘Toytown’ image that the village had showcased up till now. According to  Mackinlay Antonio das Merces Barreto, or Mack, as he insists on being called, who runs The Local Beat, Goa – a group that organises walking tours in the area –  Assagao belongs to a group of nine places that made up what are called the ‘Old Conquests’ of Bardez in North Goa. This part of Goa was ruled by the Portuguese for around 200 years of their approximately 450-odd-years of rule of Goa and this Hindu region became ‘Christianised.’ As a result, today Assagao’s 3,500 odd population is split between Hindus and Christians, the latter having just returned in the past half century.

Bird Watching

Local historians believe that before the imposition of Christianity, original customs and beliefs revolved around nature. Nature is indeed the highlight here and it’s easy to understand why this place has been dubbed the ‘Valley of Flowers.’ People here would grow flowers and take it to the famous Mapusa market which is usually in full swing on Fridays. Apart from flowers, botanists and naturalists will be especially interested in the bio-diversity here. There are medicinal plants and flowers, eight to ten different types of berries that are safe to eat and birds. Bird watchers from across the country come here and winged varieties such as the Purple Sunbird, Wagtail, Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher, Red-whiskered Bulbul and the Asian Yellow Oriole, can be seen here.

Diner’s Delight

The urge to seek something different has led to North Goa, and especially Assagao, to quietly become a hub for tourists, sick of the usual beach holiday. Just as quietly, infrastructure is being created for them. Thalassa, a Greek restaurant, has become the it spot to see and be seen is located here while Gunpowder, a restaurant which wowed millennials and the 30-something crowd for a time in Delhi’s Hauz Khas area, before shutting shop and moving to Goa, are some of the places to dine out. Local artisans’ studios are nearby and those who want to can hire a taxi and spend a pleasant evening browsing and talking to them. Scooters for hire are the most common way to get around, but unless you are confident, it is not a recommended mode of travel here.

Elite Events 

For staying options, Assagao does not offer five-star venues and a quick search on the internet will instead reveal a plethora of homestays, a number of them operational round the year. Local here recommend Casa dos Gamas, The Tamarind, Casa Assagao, Sunbeam, Hotel Astoria, Botanique, and The Project Cafe and travellers can look them up online and select according to their requirements. The Project Café – which is a 130-year-old Portuguese villa – is going a little further than the others as it is hosting invite-only events to provide visitors with a taste of ‘elite Goa.’ A Portuguese food pop-up, performances by local bands, and a recently held Subodh Kerkar art exhibition makes this a place a hub for a crowd wanting an experience. For those artistically inclined, renowned fashion designer JJ Vallaya has turned art photographer here and his artworks on the wall are for sale. The place is charming and worth a visit while here.    

A nature train at Assagao

A visit to Assagao is an eye-opener because it shows tourists a very different side to Goa. For those however who do prefer nearby beaches and the more traditional amenities that the state offers, it is better to stay here a night and then take a taxi towards more familiar climes. As Assagao and its locals make clear, the place is not for everyone.

Need to Know

Getting There: Assagao is approximately one and a half hour hours from the airport by taxi. Most homestays offer pickups.

No Gadgets Here: The place is to switch off. There are often no TVs in rooms, Wi-Fi is tough to get. There is no beach nearby; you will need a taxi to get there.

Transport: It’s easiest to hire scooters or cars of your choice because taxis are expensive. Ola and Uber aren’t here or anywhere in Goa. Rates start from Rs 1,500 onwards. It all depends on the car of your choice. Some homestays even claim they can arrange Audis though this should not be readily believed.

Move On: Assagao is a weekend getaway. Stay for a night and then get ready to move on to explore other parts of Goa.

Plan Ahead: Till August, the whole of Goa is in a state of flux. Do plan an itinerary and ask if the places you want to visit are open before you come.         

Don’t Dress Up: Sandals, good walking shoes, umbrellas plenty of change of shirts, shorts, for the rain is a must.