LIFESTYLE
Put on your best clothing and join the festivities, says Avril-Ann Braganza
Trashigang Tshechu
Every village in Trashigang Dzongkhag, the largest district in Bhutan, has it’s own distinctive annual festival, but the highlight is the three-day Teshechu held at Trashigang Dzong, which sits majestically on a high ridge overlooking the Dangmechu and the Gamrichu. This year the festival will be held from November 30 to December 2 and will be attended by the Brokpas, a semi-nomadic people that reside in the valleys of Merak and Sakteng; the Khengpa community and people from as far as Samdrup Jongkhar, Pema Gatshel and Trashiyangtse.
Preparations for the Tshechu begin two days prior to the actual festival. On the 7th day of the month of the Bhutanese calendar, the monks perform ceremonial ablutions or thrue. On the eighth day they have rehearsals in preparation for the Tshechu. It’s only on the 9th of the month that the Tshechu properly begins. On the 10th day the Thongdrol of Neten Chudrug (Sixteen Arhats) is unfurled amidst a flurry of mask dances. The Thongdrol is brocade embroidered with religious figures. According to the belief, just a glimpse of the brocade will wash away their sins and demerits and witnessing the unfurling of the Thongdrol is like submitting your life to a new beginning without any negativity. A person becomes a new beginner with new hope in life and with positive energy committed to doing good deeds. The Sixteen Arhats are the religious figures, who are believed to have denounced human life and become enlightened. Showcasing this to the spectators is a reminder of how one can achieve enlightenment.
On the final day, the old Thongdrol of Guru Tshengyed is displayed. The unfurling is accompanied by the performance of Guru Tshengyed Chhams. Guru Tshengyed means the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche, the great Buddhist saint. During one of his religious quests in Bhutan, he is said to have transformed himself into eight forms to subdue a demon, which was inflicting harm on human souls. This particular mask dance commemorates the victory of good over evils and is also a tribute to honour Guru Rinpoche.
Monggar Tshechu
Festivals are some of the best ways to experience and learn about the cultures of a country. So if you’re in Bhutan between November 28 and December 1, make your way to Monggar in eastern Bhutan for the Monggar Tshechu.
Celebrated mainly by the Tshanglas and the Kurtoeps, the main inhabitants of Monggar, people from as far as Trashigang and Lhuentse come to witness this festival. While the spectators dress up in their finest clothing and jewellery, the performers wear multi-coloured floral outfits and masks if animals. They perform masked dances as well as cultural and religious enactments in the courtyard of the Dzong in Monggar, which was an initiative of the third King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck in 1953. Attending Tshechu reminds people of the religious way of life and redirects them to do good deeds. It is also an opportunity to build and enhance community ties.
Previously known as Zhongar, the people of Monggar were referred to as the Zhongarps. In the 16th century, under the reign of the legendary Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgayel, Zhongar spread its power over the region of Dungsam (present Samdrup Jongkhar and Pemagatshel). It was referred the bastion of Zhongarps owing to its potential of producing some of the best administrators and leaders.
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