Kolhapuris to get a French accent

Kolhapuri chappals, which have been on the must-have lists of the fashion police and yet have been falling out of favour as everyday wear, is all set to get an uplift. With the intention of making it agreeable to both the young and the fashion-conscious, the state government and industry experts are roping in traditional artisans.

Along with improving their aesthetics and comfort and aligning these products with market trends, the move is expected to revive the dying art of hand-crafting leather Kolhapuri chappals and their falling market demand.

Despite enjoying the tag as a centuries-old traditional wear, Kolhapuris are gradually losing ground to branded footwear and cheaper knock-offs, which include those manufactured in states like Uttar Pradesh and Karnataka and are passed off as those from Kolhapur, where they originate.

The Maharashtra State Khadi and Village Industries Board (MSKVIB) has launched these design interventions and initiated the registration of a copyright under the name, 'Kalatmaka Kolhapur', to help consumers identify genuine heritage products.

"This is a heritage craft, not just an occupation. It is inter-woven with the socio-economic fabric of a region," noted Richa Bagla, CEO, MSKVIB. She added they were working to upgrade skills and introduce design interventions for enhanced comfort and style.

Bagla said they had involved resource persons, including a former sourcing head of an international footwear giant and a Paris-based professor of shoe design, who went to villages, met artisans and suggested improvements.

The board has trained 35 craftsmen in a pilot project and will rope in more. By year-end, it plans to introduce around 3,000 pairs with improved designs. "We are looking at various marketing channels like malls, exhibitions, e-marketing and even exports," added Bagla, stating that linkages with premier designer chains were being considered.

The improvements include better sole, finesse, comfortable knot-placing, angles and designs. These sandals, which are otherwise flat-soled, can have separate models for children, colours for the youth and heels for women.

"We are working as an aggregator and collaborator. We are aggregating talents across the country and outside for those who want to contribute to the cause," added Bagla, noting that the focus was on making Kolhapuris contemporary and receptive to markets without diluting their traditional value.

It will tap the huge domestic and international demand, including in Europe, where handcrafted products are sought-after.

Officials said the board will create backward and forward linkages by skilling artisans in new techniques, patterns and industry trends and helping with marketing. Better tools, techniques and raw material will boost production and quality and attract fresh blood to the industry.

ALL ABOUT KOLHAPURIS

• Kolhapuri chappals are mainly manufactured at Karvir, Kagal, Shirol and Hatkanangale in Kolhapur
   
• They are sturdy, heat-resistant, rugged and known for their quality and artisanship.
   
• The technique is passed down for generations; some models cost thousands of rupees