Indian flavour loses in UK fest

LONDON: Atul Kochhar is India’s most celebrated chef in Britain. Born and brought up in Jamshedpur where his father had a catering business, Atul had dreams of becoming an actor. But reality struck when, being the eldest son, he realised he had to do something that would put bread on the table, so he decided to change track and now puts bread on many tables — in style. The only Indian chef to get a Michelin star, Atul has just participated in a BBC competition to provide a feast for the Queen for her 80th birthday. Fending off competition from the best chefs in the UK Atul became the only non-white British chef to make it to the final seven. He talks to DNA about the competition and his future.

How do you feel about not making it to the final four who will cook for the Queen?

Naturally, I am extremely disappointed, but it was such an honour just being given the chance to compete. I knew I was the underdog, and felt from the beginning that I didn’t stand a chance but I couldn’t let go of the opportunity. Beating Gary Rhodes — the man who has single-handedly improved English cuisine, in my opinion — and getting into the final seven, and still managing top scores was unbelievable. It was an experience that no money can ever buy. I also wanted to be able to see Rhodes in action.

Why do you think you didn’t make it, though you got very close in two courses — the fish and the chicken?

The final decision was taken by vote by the British people and I had some worries about that. First, everyone voting was seeing my food on TV, not tasting it. Many are sceptical about Indian food. There is a debate about whether Indian food is truly British and whether it should go in a competition for the Great British Menu. Secondly, the time for voting was wrong for me. It was early evening, when viewers are mostly children or the over 60s. Young people, who are more adventurous about food are at work or on their way home and couldn’t vote for me.

Do you think Indian food is part of the British menu now?

Of course. The debate now of what is British is raging, but the criterion has to be as long as you use homegrown products. After all what is really British? Every time a chef uses pasta it has come from Italy, nutmeg has come from India, black pepper has come from Africa or India and so on, So, really they shouldn’t be allowed to use any of these either if you want to be really British. I only used ingredients that were grown in Britain, but I think it will take time for Indian food to be truly accepted.

Why did you pick Tandoori Chicken for the main course? Is it because Chicken Tikka Masala is England’s favourite dish?

Definitely, it was there at the back of my mind that it’s the most loved dish among the British. Also Tandoori Chicken is royal food so why not give it to royalty. And it still provides a slice of India.

Have any of the royal family come to your restaurant?

Not British royalty, but the Sultan of Brunei has eaten here, as have members of the Arab royal families and the Dutch royal family. I have cooked for Prince Charles and his sons William and Harry though. They were playing a polo match against an Indian team 5 years ago, when I was asked to cook lunch. They love hot food and were very complimentary about my cooking.

You are the most successful Indian chef in Britain, so what is next for you?

I am a slow person and take my time, consolidating as I go. I would like to do more TV work and open a restaurant in Mumbai or Delhi.  And I don’t think Indian restaurants  are creative, even the 5 star’s. They look very grand, but they have no soul. They are only concerned with how they can cut corners and make large profits. They need to wake up. They should support farmers and get them to grow their produce for them and so help the rural economy too. That is what I would like to do if I were to go to India.

Are you looking to follow Sanjeev Kapoor and become a celebrity TV chef?

Not at all. I think his stuff is dead boring. Its too studio based. I would like to become a wandering gourmet, going to small places and discover unusual local recipes.