India Post’s expensive palkhi service

By the late 1830s, British rule had been firmly established across the length and breadth of the Indian subcontinent, save Sindh and Punjab. But travelling between places was still a pain, and the age-old palkee (now known as palkhi) was very much in vogue. Starting a decade later in 1853, a radical new invention would fundamentally alter transportation across India. So much so, that the palkhi system was completely obliterated by the Railways. It seems quite amusing today to read about how journeys of over a thousand miles were still being done by people sitting in a box carried by four bearers — all this merely a hundred and fifty years ago! But for the longest time, before the advent of good roads and rail lines, the palkhi was the most comfortable mode of transport. The other one was of course, riding on horseback.

From the latter part of the eighteenth century, it was the postal department which was responsible for arranging palkhi bearers for anyone desirous of availing this transportation service! It was, in a rather self-explanatory way, called the ‘Dak Palkhi’. Today, travelling by any mode of transport involves the purchase of a ticket at the starting point of the journey. After that, all you have to do is turn up and expect that your bus, train or plane also arrives in time. The Dak Palkhi, however, involved days and days of planning prior to the journey. Letters had to be sent well in advance to the postal department detailing the complete itinerary of the traveller — so that the palanquin bearers could be suitably arranged along the route. This included not just the beginning and end points, but also all the intervening halts along with long and short stays specifically mentioned. The post master of that district would then send messages to the various villages and post stations or post offices to keep palanquin bearers and rest houses ready. Any delay or preponing on part of the traveller bore financial consequences. The palanquin itself was supplied by the person wishing to travel! Something like a driver on hire service! Vivid accounts have been left by colonial era travellers such as Bishop Herber who travelled by palanquin from Calcutta to Benares as also James Douglas, who has described palkhi journeys near Mumbai, then Bombay, in his Glimpses of Old Bombay.

The first change of palkhi bearers bound for Pune occurred at Khalapur, roughly the place where stands the Expressway toll plaza today! It took four days to complete the journey by palkhi. Even after the horse-drawn carriage became prevalent, it still took two days — and the steep gradient of the Bhor Ghat could only be crossed by palanquin, if not on horseback. Finally, two railway engines conquered the ghat in 1863.

The vastness of India and its intricate web of politics alerted the British to the need of a more efficient system of transporting dignitaries and military officers across the country. Accordingly, in 1778, a system was devised by Capt John Harvey. Eight bearers were to be stationed at an interval of every ten miles, assisted by two torch bearers and two luggage porters. They were to cover almost a hundred miles every day — which comes to about four miles of walking an hour.

A British source of the nineteenth century mentions how the distance from Calcutta to Allahabad was covered by palkhi in a week’s time, for an expense of around three hundred rupees! The rent for this service was 1 rupee per mile, which went directly to Capt Harvey till 1783. After Capt John Harvey, the postal department took the responsibility of this service. The palkhi bearers themselves would be paid around five rupees a month as remuneration. The set of twelve palkhi burdars or palkhi bearers would change at pre-determined spots along the way, known as ‘stages’. These stages were located at ten miles intervals, a distance covered by the palkhi burdars in about three hours. At slightly greater distances — fifteen to fifty miles — were rest houses kept for travellers. The more familiar term used for them, since they were associated with the postal services, was dak bungalow!

Travelling by palkhi was an expensive affair. A 100-mile journey would cost hundred rupees, which was way beyond the monthly income of most, and hence travelling by palanquin was the preserve of sahibs and the elite. The dak bungalows themselves were free of cost for government servants, but available for a fee to others, the government permitting. It goes without saying that some amount of the ‘tip’ or baksheesh was expected from the well-heeled clients!

By the beginning of the twentieth century, palanquins had become obsolete. But the palkhi itself lives on — mainly in marriages and religious procession.

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