DNA Exclusive: Mysore Cafe owner talks about Ambanis, restaurant's signature dish

In the bustling heart of Mumbai lies a beacon of culinary excellence, a family restaurant that has seamlessly blended tradition with innovation. In an exclusive interview with DNA, Naresh Nayak, the third-generation custodian of this legacy, has taken the reins of a business that has withstood the test of time and numerous global events. His journey from the banking sector in Australia back to his roots in Mumbai is nothing short of inspiring.

What does Mysore Cafe mean to you beyond just a business?

"My grandfather, Akkar Rama Nayak, laid the foundation of our restaurant in 1936, introducing the Udupi restaurant style in Mumbai," says Naresh Nayak, the current frontrunner. The restaurant has witnessed and survived significant historical events, including World War II, the Indian independence movement, and the 1970s food scarcity crisis. This resilience is a testament to the dedication and adaptability of the Nayak family.

After spending several years in Australia, working in the banking sector, Naresh returned to India just before the COVID-19 pandemic. The global crisis forced the restaurant to shut down temporarily, but Naresh saw it as an opportunity to infuse new ideas into the family business. "In Australia, I observed several innovations in the food and beverage space that left a lasting impression on me. I was determined to bring some of these innovations to India," he recalls.

Working towards a sustainable environment

One of the significant changes Naresh introduced was a focus on sustainability. The restaurant now boasts 42 kilowatts of solar panels, making it the largest solar power producer in Matunga. "We are committed to reducing our carbon footprint. We've also eliminated the use of tissues by incorporating sensor automation for hygiene, which saves hundreds of kilos of tissue waste annually," he explains.

In a bid to further sustainability, Naresh is experimenting with non-plastic alternatives for packaging. "We're also introducing high-tech rinse taps that reduce water usage by up to 40% and hot water systems that cut down electricity consumption by 80%," he adds. These efforts ensure the restaurant is prepared for future water and electricity shortages, particularly in a city like Mumbai.

Signature dish at Mysore Cafe with an interesting story behind it?

Naresh's return to the family business also saw the introduction of new delights. "We've embraced contemporary flavours while maintaining our traditional South Indian cooking style," he says. The restaurant now serves vegan versions of traditional dishes, like the iconic South Indian filter coffee made with non-dairy milk. This was a significant change from the traditional recipe but has been well received by customers.

The menu also features modern twists on classic dishes, such as peri peri idli fry and peri peri dosa, which have become top-selling items. "We also have a special dish for kids, the Dil kush Dosa, which is like a pizza dosa with cheese, tomato, and capsicum," Naresh shares. These innovations cater to changing tastes while preserving the essence of South Indian cuisine.

Many people are curious about your connection with prominent leaders. How did this relationship come about, and in what ways has it influenced your journey as a cafe owner?

Despite the modern touches, the essence of the restaurant remains unchanged. The traditional dishes, beloved by figures such as the Ambani family and celebrated for their authentic taste, continue to be a cornerstone of the menu.

One fascinating anecdote shared was how the Ambani family, known for their busy schedules and high-profile lifestyle, once went to great lengths to enjoy their favorite food. During a period when Mukesh Ambani was in Paris on business, he was so keen on having his favorite South Indian dishes that he arranged for the food to be transported via a supply flight.

Yes, you read that right—an exclusive supply flight was dispatched to ensure that the Ambani family could enjoy their beloved dishes, piping hot, all the way in Paris.  The Ambani family's fondness for these dishes is well-documented. They especially appreciate the traditional coconut chutney, a dish prepared with an abundance of fresh coconut, which is a hallmark of the restaurant's high standards.

Naresh shared a poignant memory from the restaurant's history: “Indira Gandhi once requested our coffee, and after tasting it, she sent her compliments, saying it was excellent. This kind of recognition from such high places is a proud moment for us.”

Naresh reflects on this moment with pride: “Food has a unique way of bridging gaps between people from all walks of life. Our restaurant has been a gathering place for everyone, from prominent business leaders to everyday customers, and we are honoured to have played a part in that.”

Today, despite the innovations, the restaurant remains a traditional, conservative South Indian eatery at its core.