Jewel of the Malabar

Moplah food from Calicut is a melange of Arab influences  and traditional Indian spices, writes  ISMAT TAHSEEN

The verdant countryside of South India is known for its picturesque back waters and swaying palms. But the pristine beauty apart, that the place holds another precious tale.

It’s a secret that still refuses to be smoked out from its place of origin and replicated. We’re talking of the Moplah style of cooking, brought to India centuries ago, when Arabs came to the coast of South India centuries ago to trade in spices and silk.
Moplah, meaning newlywed groom or son-in-law of the house (both in Tamil and Malayalam) comes from the anglicised version of Mappila, which is the Kerala Muslim community of north Malabar.

Most homes here have traditional women cooks called Ethathas who wear a long white scarf-like head-dress. Explains Chef Pavan Chennam of ITC Grand, Sahar: “The food is cooked with a mix of hand-pounded spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, pathat ka phool and whole chillies.”

Drawing a parallel with the Kerala diet, Moplah food too uses a lot of coconut and coconut oil and rice is the staple. Yet it is the Arab influence that is most prevalent. “Like in a dish like Alisa, which a wholesome wheat and meat porridge and in the stuffed chicken,” continues the chef.

Gravy and fish
The fare has a spread of gravies such as Athakkali Vattichatu (stewed tomatoes garlic mustard gravy), another bittergourd gravy and the Chakkara Kadu Manga, made of sweet and sour mangoes.

“Due to the location of the community seafood is also a prime part of the meal,” he explains. The Chemeen Mulakittathu that has prawns cooked in a piquant paste of chillies, tamarind and tomatoes goes down well with rice, which also tempers the spiciness while Meen Pathiri (fish wrapped in rice pancakes and steamed) is another favourite. 

The Pathiri or rice chapatti is the perfect accompaniment to the rich and flavoursome meat and fish gravies.

Biryani
The Moplah biryani has its own style of making too. “The water isn’t drained out but retained and even the meat is allowed to soak and steam in the water unlike in the Kozhikode  regions where it is poured out,” he explains.

Dessert
Most delicacies are made to welcome a newly wedded couple. Of these, the Mutta Mala (an egg mixture poured into boiling sugar syrup that forms into garlands), that ends the repast, is had as per tradition.

There’s so much on offer in a Moplah meal. Do remember to try some, when you make that trip down South.

t_ismat@dnaindia.net