The traditional lighting of the nine-branched hanukiah lamp, gorging on delicious donuts... the Jewish festival of Hanukkah commemorates the rededication of the Second Temple in Jerusalem. Observed for eight nights, it starts on the 25th day of Kislev (this year, December 24 to January 1), according to the Hebrew calendar.
A story of victory
In 200 BC, Judea (Israel) fell under the rule of the Seleucid king of Syria, Antiochus III, who allowed the Jews freedom to practice Judaism. His son Antiochus IV Epiphanes, however, was not so kind and forced them to worship the Greek gods. His soldiers massacred thousands of Jews in Jerusalem and desecrated the Second Temple. Not long after, Mattathias, a Jewish priest, led a revolt against the Seleucid monarchy and when he died, his son Judah took his place, bringing the Jews to victory. The temple was cleansed and rededicated; “it was a reaffirmation of their faith,” shares Solomon Sopher, president of the Baghdadi Jewish community. According to the Talmud, the menorah in the Temple could only be lit with undefiled, pure olive oil. While the oil they had should have been sufficient for only one night, “it lasted for eight nights, which is why Hanukkah is celebrated for eight nights” says Sopher.
Lighting the Hanukiah
The hanukiah “must be lit each evening after sunset, in every Jewish home,” shares Sopher. It has eight branches—one candle for each of the eight nights—and an additional ninth branch called the shamash that is distinctly placed either higher or lower than the rest, from which the eight are lit.
“While some families continue using oil lamps, many feel that candles are easier,” says Daniel David, a tour guide from Mumbai. The hanukiah is kept near a window or in the balcony, so people can see it and “should burn at least for 30 minutes,” adds Myer Moses, a Bene Israeli Jew from Thane. A few paragraphs from the Torah are read and songs are sung before the candles are lit. “Everyone in the family gets a chance to light the hanukiah,” he says.
As this year Hanukkah begins on Saturday, which is the Sabbath (a day of religious observance and abstinence from work kept by Jews), “at sunset the Havdalah candle that marks the end of the Sabbath will be lit first. This signifies that the Sabbath laws will be no longer be effective and only then is the Hanukkah lamp lit. “On Friday, we will first light the hanukiah and then the Sabbath candle,” shares David.
“Those travelling during vacation, can carry a hanukiah with them,” says Moses. One of the few Jewish festivals that doesn't have any restrictions, “it can be celebrated in any way; there are Hanukkah camps and parties, games for kids, and people invite friends over,” adds David.
Sweet treats
What's a festival without its food? And at Hanukkah, donuts are the speciality. “We generally make oil-based food. As donuts are deep fried, it's tradition to eat and distribute donuts,” shares Chef Moshe Shek founder of Moshe’s. “Our meals would be different from our daily food, but there’s nothing specially made for the festival. We try and use oil and fat rich foods that signify the miracle of the oil,” explains Chef Moshe.
There's no special main course for Hanukkah. “Jewish meals are influenced by the places we come from and are adapted to the culture of the places we live in. For Hanukkah, our meals would be different from our regular food, but there's nothing specially made for the festival. We try and use oil and fat rich foods to signify the miracle of the oil lamp,” explains Chef Moshe.
There’s an Indianised version too. David's family makes halwa and Moses remembers his mother making pancakes, narali bhat and marzipan. While European Jews make rugelach, a cream-cheese pastry with jam or fruit filling, Chef Moshe, who has worked as a chef in Israel says, “Sufganiyot—a round donut without the hole—is traditionally eaten in Israel. It is filled with jam and there are modern takes like the sesame seed Jewish halwa, hazelnuts and praline and of course, chocolate. I make it with fresh strawberry jam, which is in season now”.
While Hanukkah celebrations don't differ across the world, it is celebrated on a larger scale in Israel. “Bakeries prepare huge trays of donuts and huge hanukiahs are lit in parks. The whole country celebrates,” recalls Chef Moshe.
