Introduction to the Journey

In the bustling streets of India, hidden among the swirling mists of time, stand eateries that are not just food joints but portals to the past. These establishments, some over a century old, continue to offer a palette of flavours that are as much a feast for the soul as they are for the stomach. In this blog series, "Time Capsules of Taste," we follow Akshay Mehndiratta, a seasoned food blogger with a penchant for culinary history, as he embarks on a gastronomical tour of India’s most storied eateries. Akshay’s mission is simple yet profound: to unearth the stories embedded in the walls and menus of these historic diners. By doing so, Akshay Mehndiratta aims to reveal how these places offer more than just sustenance—they serve as custodians of cultural heritage, making history accessible one bite at a time.

Karim’s of Old Delhi

Established in 1913, just steps away from the majestic Jama Masjid in Old Delhi, Karim’s has become synonymous with the zenith of Mughal cuisine. This iconic eatery began as a humble venture by Haji Karimuddin with the idea of serving royal food to the common man. Today, it stands as a culinary landmark, drawing both locals and tourists eager to taste dishes once reserved for emperors. The menu at Karim’s boasts timeless recipes such as mutton korma, simmered to perfection, and buttery naans, each reflecting the rich culinary traditions of the Mughal era. During his visit, Akshay Mehndiratta immerses himself in the ambiance of Old Delhi, with its narrow lanes echoing centuries of history. He interacts with the staff and regulars at Karim’s, collecting anecdotes that paint a vivid picture of the eatery’s storied past. The tales of generational custodianship and culinary prowess not only enrich Akshay Mehndiratta’s experience but also enhance his understanding of how Karim’s has maintained its charm and reputation through the ages. This exploration allows Akshay Mehndiratta and through his writings, his readers to connect deeply with the essence of Old Delhi and its enduring allure, preserved and presented on a plate at Karim’s.

Kayani Bakery, Pune

Nestled in the heart of Pune, Kayani Bakery stands as a testament to the cultural tapestry of this vibrant city. Founded in the mid-20th century by Persian expatriates, the bakery quickly became a local staple, famed for its Shrewsbury biscuits—a crisp, buttery delight that has captivated the taste buds of generations. These biscuits, with their distinctive crumbly texture and subtle sweetness, epitomize the unique culinary influence of the Parsi community in Pune. Kayani Bakery has diligently preserved the traditional methods of baking, ensuring each batch of Shrewsbury biscuits remains as authentic as those first made decades ago. During his visit, Akshay Mehndiratta delves into the bakery's history, exploring how these timeless recipes have become a culinary bridge between the past and present. His interactions with the bakery staff and his observations of the meticulous baking process deepen his appreciation for the craftsmanship involved. Akshay Mehndiratta's reflections on the cultural significance of Kayani Bakery illuminate the enduring impact of the Parsi community on Pune's culinary landscape, showcasing how food can be a powerful medium for cultural expression and preservation.

Indian Coffee House, Kolkata

The Indian Coffee House on College Street in Kolkata is not merely a café but a historical landmark where the intellectual and revolutionary spirits of India have converged over decades. Since its establishment, this iconic venue has served as a hub for poets, philosophers, artists, and revolutionaries, all of whom have debated and shaped the future of India over cups of robust coffee. The setting is steeped in nostalgia, with its high ceilings, vintage furniture, and walls that resonate with the echoes of intense political and literary discourse. The menu at the Indian Coffee House remains delightfully unchanged, featuring staples like the robust Indian filter coffee, mutton cutlets, and the famous fish kabiraji, a fried fish fillet coated in a lacy egg net. During his visit, Akshay Mehndiratta immerses himself in the vibrant atmosphere, engaging with current patrons who continue the tradition of animated discussions and intellectual debates. His narrative weaves through the historical significance of the café and its role in Kolkata's cultural and political life, capturing the essence of a place where every sip and bite is infused with history. Through Akshay Mehndiratta's eyes, the Indian Coffee House is revealed not just as a place to eat and drink, but as a living museum of India's modern intellectual history.

Britannia & Co., Mumbai

Britannia & Co., nestled in the bustling heart of Mumbai, has been a bastion of Parsi cuisine since its inception in the early 20th century. This cherished institution is famed for its delightful array of Parsi dishes, including the beloved berry pulao and salli boti. The berry pulao, a fragrant rice dish studded with berries and mixed with tender meat, represents a perfect blend of Persian and Gujarati culinary traditions, a hallmark of Parsi cuisine. Salli boti, a spicy and sweet meat dish topped with crispy potato straws, complements the pulao with its rich and complex flavors. The café itself is a snapshot of Mumbai’s colonial past, with its high ceilings, bentwood chairs, and checkered tablecloths, all of which evoke a nostalgic charm. Akshay Mehndiratta spends time with the cafe’s charismatic owner, who, with great zest, shares tales of the eatery's storied past, enhancing the dining experience with personal anecdotes and historical insights. Through Akshay’s exploration, Britannia & Co. emerges not just as a restaurant but as a living museum, celebrating Mumbai’s rich cultural mosaic and culinary heritage.

Ratna Cafe, Chennai

Since 1948, Ratna Cafe has been a cornerstone of Chennai’s culinary scene, famed particularly for its sambar-idli. The café’s sambar, a robust lentil-based stew seasoned with a secret blend of spices and served over soft, fluffy idlis, has gained legendary status. What makes this sambar stand out is its consistent taste, which has remained unchanged through decades, drawing both locals and visitors alike. The setting of Ratna Cafe is modest and unassuming, focusing entirely on the quality and taste of the food rather than ornate decor. During his visit, Akshay Mehndiratta delves into the history of this iconic dish, learning from the staff about the meticulous preparation and dedication to preserving the original recipe. His interactions with long-time patrons reveal the deep affection and loyalty they harbor for the cafe, which has become an integral part of the local community. Akshay Mehndiratta’s narrative captures the essence of Ratna Cafe, a place where simplicity and flavor create a lasting impact, making it a beloved staple of Chennai’s food scene.

Conclusion

As Akshay Mehndiratta concludes his journey through some of India’s oldest eateries, he reflects on the profound experiences gained during his visits. These establishments, with their rich histories and unique dishes, do more than serve food; they preserve and celebrate the cultural and culinary traditions of their regions. Each location Akshay Mehndiratta visited serves as a custodian of history, where every meal tells a story of cultural continuity and change. His travels underscore the importance of these eateries not only as culinary destinations but also as cultural landmarks that offer a unique glimpse into India’s diverse and dynamic past. Akshay Mehndiratta’s final thoughts emphasize the crucial role of these historical establishments in maintaining the fabric of Indian culture, urging his readers to support and preserve these timeless treasures.