Close encounters: Lois Pryce talks about her adventures after biking through Iran

Book: Revolutionary Ride
Author: Lois Pryce
Publisher: HACHETTE
Pages: 304 pages
Price: Rs 499

'Death to the dictator!' The words that have today come to define the many failed regimes of Iran are echoing yet again from its streets, though with a little alteration, in the garb of ongoing protests following the economic sanctions imposed by the US in August this year. Whether this means acceptance of The Great Satan (US) among the Iranian people, can't be said but the protests do suggest that the country is indeed introspecting the role of its government in its economic downfall.

Acceptance of the West in Iran, however negatively portrayed by the global — particularly the Western media — can actually be seen in Iran's daily life and culture. Lois Pryce narrates in what can be read as a fine example of the same, in her 2017 book Revolutionary Ride. "Despite the advent of my truly global trade, it was plain to see just how isolated Iran was as a result of the long-standing international sanctions. There were no European goods on sale here and certainly nothing from America, or at least nothing genuine. The only American logos in sight were cheap copies of fashionable brands on T-shirts, trainers and baseball caps or, more charmingly home-made versions of the worst America has to offer, including a fast-food joint I had spotted in the street outside featuring a hand-painted KFC logo. But these bootleg brands and hokey attempts to cash in on them only served to prove a point: that Iran's global isolation hadn't turned the Iranian people against the products of 'The Great Satan' — it has just made them more alluring."

In December 2011, a few weeks after the Iranian embassy staff in the UK was ordered to leave the country in a retaliatory measure to a similar order by Iran to the UK embassy, Lois received a letter signed by a Habib. "Please do not think of what has happened here and in Tehran. These are our governments, not the Iranian people. I wish that you will visit Iran so you will see for yourself about my country." The letter led Lois 'on the road in search of The Real Iran'.

Asked if she would have visited Iran at the time had it not been for Habib's letter, Lois says, "I don't know if I would have planned it at that time. I had always had an interest in visiting Iran but no more than many other places. The letter/invitation came about because of the problems with Anglo-Iranian relations at that time, so it was an interesting time to go."

Habib seemed desperate to separate Iran's social identity from its political identity. A point Lois relates to in her book. "The citizens of a country and their government are two entirely separate entities. After all, I wouldn't want a foreign visitor to Britain to associate me with my government." However, as Revolutionary Ride takes one through the alleys of Iran's political history, one is surprised at a similarity trend at every turning point. An extremist, radical regime; state-imposed limitations on the daily Iranian life; eventual social resistance to the regime's extreme measures followed by protests; birth of a new regime albeit radical in one way or another; this trend has tended to make one question if the common Iranian man is practicing their voting rights wisely. "It was my impression that the voting in of the Islamic Republic in 1979, after the reign of the Shah is a huge source of regret for many people. They wanted change (understandably) and they thought that Khomeini would bring that change. They didn't realise just how much their freedoms and rights would be crushed under his regime. The big issue now is that most of the population is under 30-years-old (70%) and of course they did not vote for the Islamic Republic - and resent it enormously," says Lois.

The prevailing protests and attempts to overthrow the Supreme Leader Sayyed Ali Hosseini Khamenei are echoing this resentment of the youth in Iran. But the road to freedom is a long one. A young Neda's call for justice during the 2009 protests against election rigging was silenced as a bullet fired by the Basij, a force of the Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps, shot through her chest. Death seemed like the cost for a free-spirited Iranian woman. Merely three years after the incident came Lois's trip.

Speaking about her lone adventure through Iran on a motorbike, Lois says, "From speaking to the Iranian women I met, I was made aware that foreign women were treated differently (better) to Iranian women. As a guest in their country, and a Westerner, it seemed that I was a novelty and therefore treated with more respect in some situations. Iranian women reported a lot of harassment from men, particularly on public transport but as I was riding my own bike most of the time, I didn't encounter this so much, although I did experience it when walking around towns alone sometimes. But on the whole the men I encountered were friendly and polite - with just a few exceptions."

On her way from Ramsar, a town situated on the coast of the Caspian Sea, to Tehran, Lois's chance encounter with Aheng, a Kurdish teenage girl paints the scope for a positive picture of Iran that can possibly be although Aheng herself loses hope after a point during the conversation. Speaking about the 2009 protests, when Aheng was merely 11-years old, she says in the book, "Yes, the election was a fraud. This was the biggest protest since 1979. It started because of the election but became a big movement for democracy and human rights. It is a peaceful movement, only non-violent protests like Gandhi." "He is my hero!" But when Lois asks Aheng if there could be another revolution, she says, "I hope but I do not think so now."

Revolutionary Ride not only takes one through Iran's history but also through the minds of the Iranian people. A well-aware youth with a consciousness of its own, one may think that education as the regime's means of manipulation and Islamic radicalization may fail for good sooner or later. Lois hopes so too. "My sense is that Iranians are very aware of their Persian history/ethnicity and clearly define themselves as 'not Arabs'. And of course they are Shi-ite Muslims, rather than Sunni, like most of the neighbouring Arab countries. This very much sets them apart in the region and forms a huge part of their identity. They are also respectful and aware of the Zoroastrian faith which is Iran's original (pre-Islamic) religion. A lot of the younger people equate Islam to the oppressive regime, so prefer to identify with Zoroastrianism or even reject religion altogether. Despite being an Islamic Republic, Iran does not feel like an overtly religious country, certainly compared to other Muslim countries I have visited."

The author, a traveler and writer by interest and profession, is appreciative in her writing about the Iranian culture. But was she fearful while writing about the human rights violation and the unhappiness of the people with the regime? "Of course this is a consideration when visiting somewhere like Iran. I had some altercations with the authorities which were unnerving. I think the risk is higher for dual-nationals, of which many are being held in prison at the moment."

While the author could not find Habib, who brought her to this unusual country, she did find the hustle and bustle of the Tabriz Bazaar, the breezy coastline of the Caspian Sea, the warmth of the snowclad Alborz Mountains, thrills of the Valley of Assassins and the welcoming arms of strangers she befriended on the road. When given a choice between the Dast-e-Kavir desert and the Alborz Mountains, Lois found it a tricky choice. "I love deserts but the Alborz Mountains were spectacular."

As an Indian reader, I could relate to the spine-chilling speeds at which Iranian buses and truckers drive. With the vast highways and unending roads, who wouldn't want to seize the little sense of freedom these paths bring to you? In Lois's words, Iran truly has the most terrifying drivers in the world. "Worse than India!"

Speaking about the response to her book from Iran, Lois says the reviews have been wonderful and positive. "Iranians are very aware of the negative image of their country in the rest of the world, and very keen to counter that, so they are happy when an 'outsider' speaks or writes positively about Iran."

As one rides through the pages of Revolutionary Ride, one realises that traveling alone, especially for a woman, in Iran is not all that fashionable. But in all fairness, human beings are susceptible to challenges in any given situation. Here's a tip the author shares for those who wish to travel to Iran. "Be sensitive to the local culture with regard to your dress etc. Don't be fearful. Talk to everyone - and take up those invitations to stay with local people and eat with them. It is such a heart-warming experience."

Lois Pryce's Revolutionary Ride has brought to me a mix of the long lost Persia and a promising, new found Iran, unusually different from and far beyond the political watchtowers of the world. In response to Lois's recommendations of visiting the desert city of Yazd and relishing Fesenjun - a rich sauce made from pomegranates and walnuts, served with crispy 'tahdig' rice, I hope to begin my advent someday with the author's favourite Iranian expression — bezan berim or let's go!