When you picture an Indian bride from any part of the country, what immediately comes to mind is her jewellery—a beautiful maang-tikka adorned with precious stones, stunning gold earrings, an impressive polki or kundan necklace, a glittering nose ring, an enamelled gold chuda.... Each add meaning and magnificence to her look. But for now, let's focus on the nose ring.
According to Tarang Arora, CEO and Director, Amrapali, “Different from traditional Hindu jewellery, nose rings have primarily no symbolic or religious significance. Yet they are affiliated to religious festivals. In many areas, the nose ring is an indispensable part of the wedding jewellery and only married women are allowed to wear them.” Mira Gulati, Founder and Principal Designer, Mirari, says that according to Hinduism, the nose ring is regarded as a mark of beauty and social standing as well as an honour to Parvati, the goddess of marriage.
The History
Amrapali's set of three septum rings from the Chandrika Collection
So, were nose rings always a part of India's glorious history? Both Tarang and Mira tell us that nose rings were introduced by the Mughals, sometime in the 15th and 16th centuries. The idea of decorating the nose was enthusiastically adopted by Indian women and goldsmiths. Designs were eventually enlarged and adorned with pearls as well as precious stones like rubies and garnets, which symbolised wealth.
Worn on the nostrils, septum or the bridge of the nose, “in India, every region has a different style of wearing them,” says Mira adding that “women in the northern part of the country wear it on the left whereas in the South, it is worn on the right”. Tarang adds, “Nose rings in South India are smaller and not worn as often as in the north. The most beautiful nose rings are found in Rajasthan, Gujarat and Himachal Pradesh”.
The Evolution
According to Mira, earlier the size of nose pins or rings—made of gold and silver and studded with diamonds—was associated with a family's financial power and status, but things have changed. “Once considered auspicious and as a mandatory marriage ornament by all Muslim brides, now it is not at all uncommon to see unmarried girls wearing nose rings as a fashion accessory sans any religious association. The change in fashion and its acceptability is not only limited to women, but men as well. The wide variety in the market has made this piece of jewellery an easy accessory that can be worn with traditional as well as western outfits,” she shares.
The Styles
Today, women choose accessories that reflect their personality, more than their cultural roots. “A solitaire nose pin is a classic for everyday wear, whereas for those women who want to make a statement, edgy nose jewels are in vogue. Tribal designs have also garnered a lot of connoisseurs,” says Mira.A nose pin with a beautiful and rare diamond creates the perfect accessory for the modern traditionalist. “You can go as big as you want with the diamond and play with jackets, bracelets and earrings,” shares Sachin Jain, President, Forevermark India. The Forevermark Capricci Collection, originally introduced with seven interchangeable jackets, now has enamel jackets to add a beautiful hint of colour, and various seasonal jackets. “Diamond nose rings that offer an interchangeability are playful and exciting,” says Sachin.
Capricci: The Nose Pin Collection by Forevermark
While not everyone may want to go through the pain of piercing the nose, nose rings for the unpierced nose are also available. The simplest types are only pressed on the nostrils with a knob at the loose ends to prevent it from sliding.
