All you want to know about Pahadi cuisine

What is Pahadi cuisine?

The term ‘Pahadi’ originates from ‘pahad’ meaning mountain. In India, Pahadi defines the food habits and culinary culture of the people living in the mountainous regions around the Himalayas, such as Kumaon, Garhwal and parts of Kashmir. The cuisine is quite distinct in terms of ingredients and techniques. What I love most is the simplicity of the food—particularly in the Uttarakhand region, a small town called Dhanachuli.

Locally grown Fiddle-head fern 

What are some of the locally grown spices, herbs and vegetables?

Pahadi cuisine is very simple; it is completely based on the use of seasonal ingredients. Rice is a staple and breads like rotis are mainly eaten for breakfast. Though the people in the higher mountainous regions use generic spices and herbs found in most Indian homes, they also use some very indigenous ingredients like Pahadi chillies (which are spicy enough to get one’s ears smoking) and bhaang (opium) pods, which grow in the wilderness. 
Down in the plains, I stumbled upon some other spices like Jakhiya (small black seeds which grow wild and are often used in temperings, the way we use mustard or cumin seeds), Gandreni (a dried root which is used in place of asafoetida), yellow chillies and Jambu (wild herbs that are dried and used like we use kasuri methi). In the monsoons, they have virtually a treasure trove of wild greens like fiddlehead ferns, Lai (a close cousin of red mustard) and plenty of Sisunag or Bicchoo ghaas (stinging nettle). I loved the starchy red potatoes and aerial yams called Gethi, which proved to be an excellent ingredient for salads and soups.

A bowl full of Bhat

Tell us about the food-eating culture among Pahadis.  

The Pahadi community get their proteins from river fish, mutton and legumes like Bhat (a black pulse), Gahat (horsegram) and rajma. Despite the high altitude and cold climatic conditions, they hardly use any oil. Every household owns cattle, so food is cooked mostly in clarified butter (ghee). In the rare event that oil is used, it is mustard oil. Most of the food is steamed, boiled, roasted or baked. Yoghurt is used a lot. What I love is the fact that no dish has more than two spices added to it. The only thing I missed is sweets, as the region is not big on sweet dishes. The most common sweet dish is kheer, which is mostly made using rice or a jowar-like grain called Jhangora. However, there is an abundance of fresh fruits like apricots, pears, apples and persimmon.

What are some of the traditional dishes in Pahadi cuisine?

Though I have always encountered different dishes on each trip to Uttarakhand (having gone there in different seasons), the ones that I love most are Bhat ki Churkani, Mandua (Ragi) Roti, Pahadi raita (that has a good amount of mustard mixed in), Pahadi mutton and Lingur ki Sabzi (stir-fried fiddlehead fern). I also loved the bhaang ki chutney.

 

Pahadi recipes with a modern twist

I have experimented with Gethi, using it in soup and a carpaccio.

 

Fusion recipe—Gethi Carpaccio

 

Recipe: Gethi Carpaccio

Ingredients

5 – 6 nos. Gethi (peeled, finely sliced)

rock salt to taste

1 tbsp walnut oil

freshly ground black pepper to taste

½ tbsp lime juice

3 cloves garlic (minced)

4 – 5 walnuts (roughly chopped)

a few sprigs fresh coriander

Method

1. Rinse sliced gethi with cold water several times to remove extra starch. Combine with 3 cups water and salt in a saucepan. Boil on high flame till tender. Drain and refresh with cold water.

2. While gethi is boiling, combine walnut oil with salt, pepper, lime juice and garlic in a mortar; pestle and grind to a smooth paste. Keep aside till gethi is cooked and cooled.

3. Place the prepared paste in a small piece of cheesecloth and squeeze out the oil.

4. Arrange sliced gethi on a serving plate and drizzle some flavoured walnut oil over it. Liberally sprinkle walnuts and coriander. Serve immediately.