Deconstructed food done right!

Written By Melissa D’Costa D’Silva | Updated: May 04, 2018, 07:25 AM IST

(Clockwise from top left) Kadai Paneer Lasagne at Hitchki; Kode’s Deconstructed Tiramisu; Estella’s Deconstructed Lamb Wellington; Puneri Misal Choux at Café At The NCPA; Masala Library’s Deconstructed Samosa; The Looney, The Lover and The Poet’s Naked Burger

Recently, a US restaurant was slammed for its version of a deconstructed avocado toast bowl. Chefs tell us why it’s important to have a well put together dish before one breaks it down

There’s a very fine line between innovation and gimmick, and off late it’s unfortunately the latter which has been in the limelight. Most recently, a Californian restaurant made it to the viral news tab with their deconstructed  avocado toast bowl, which was slammed by netizens as false marketing for what they saw as a bowl of avocado salad with a couple of croutons. However, this is not the first time a restaurant has been pulled up for their version of deconstructed food. Back in 2016, a hotel in New Orleans was picked on for their version of a deconstructed Caesar Salad, which came with a plain head of lettuce wedged inside a ring of bread and served with a bowl of dressing. Sometimes minuscule amounts of food or DIY dishes are also passed off as deconstructed dishes leaving patrons confused and appalled. However, that does not mean you give up on the trend. For every gimmick out there, there’s also culinary innovation waiting to make it to your table. Here’s what you should know.

GETTING BACK TO BASICS

‘Deconstructed food’ registered as a culinary term with the popularity of international cookery shows like Mastechef Australia. As we tuned in to collectively share in this communal food experience of sorts, it gave foodies a chance to pick up a handy cooking hack while making a note of recipes, terms, and dishes. However, off late, there have been instances where people have been fooled with fancy terms and dishes. One way of breaking free is understanding what you are eating.  

Sarah Todd, consulting chef, The Wine Rack, who was also a popular Masterchef Australia contestant breaks it down for you, “The word ‘deconstructed’ means to break something down into its separate parts in order to understand its meaning. In the culinary world ‘deconstruction’ is the art of separating the components of a dish and then restructuring them in a unique and innovative way to tantalise the senses, while staying true to the original dish. To do this successfully, it’s vital to understand what makes the original dish memorable.”  

She goes on to explain that the flavour is nostalgic but in terms of texture and method, it might be a basic dish. She emphasises that the difference is in the preparation of the ingredients and this is where you can make a version of a classic dish your own. Adding, “While the ingredients are prepared individually, it is during the plating and presentation that everything is brought together to unify the dish. The most important thing is that you can taste the original dish but in a unique way. Ensure that it is easy to eat, and the new form complements or enhances the original dish.”

Chef Dhwani Agarwal, senior sous chef Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra, Mumbai, agrees and adds, “Many people are hesitant to try deconstructed dishes because they are not sure whether it will taste anything like the dish they are accustomed to. Hence, our focus has always been on concentrating on preserving the basic taste and flavours. We also play around with the presentation. The biggest challenge that a chef faces while deconstructing a dish is to change the appearance of the dish yet retain the authentic taste, with the flavours intact.”

THE KEY TO GETTING IT RIGHT

According to chef Vicky Ratnani, deconstruction is a time-consuming process that requires a different skill set and specialised equipment. He says, “It should be a well constructed dish in order for it to be deconstructed.” While chef Farrokh Khambata believes sticking to flavour profiles that work well can make all the difference. He adds, “It is always a risk to re-invent a classic but if you stick to flavour profiles that blend well together, it can not only match up to the original but could also give the dish a refreshed new look and taste. It’s a gamble as the idea of breaking apart elements traditionally combined together to make a dish, and serving the items separately in a unique way is not everybody’s cup of tea. There are the obvious challenges faced by chefs when you try to reinvent an already popular dish. The flavours being added may or may not go well together, the original dish is already well loved so any variations may not be well received however, I feel if the integrity of the original dish and ingredients is maintained, then the adventurous diners would try it.” Ajay Thakur corporate chef Hitchki believes the customer’s approach also plays a role. He says, “Some customers are open to it and will love the dish and some will ridicule the establishment for such an abomination.

The key to getting it right in Sarah’s words is, “Remember, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”.

DECONSTRUCTED BANOFFEE PIE CHEESECAKE

Ingredients

  • 1 kg Cream Cheese
  • 8 Eggs
  • 950 gms Sugar
  • 60 gms Cornflour
  • 300 gms Blended overripe bananas, Lemon, Sugar
  • 1 cup Graham racker crumbs
  • ¼ cup Sugar
  • ½ cup Butter, melted

Method

Whisk together all ingredients and bake at 150 degrees in bain marie.  Cool, blend and place in piping bag. Crumble crackers and bake and set aside for plating. Serve half a banana, cover with caster sugar and toast with a blow torch.  Serve with crème chantilly, piped banana cheesecake, cracker mix, butterscotch sauce and praline.

Recipe Courtesy: Sarah Todd, Consulting Chef, The Wine Rack