Food like 'aai' makes it

The image of a typical Maharashtrian eatery is that of a dimly lit place, run by a glum owner who has little to do with his patrons or the kitchen. You walk in, eat quietly and leave. There still exist restaurants that fit this type in pockets of Girgaum, Dadar
and Thane.

The younger generation of Marathi restaurateurs, however, is ready to take some risks to reach out to young restaurant hoppers who have not been introduced to traditional Maharashtrian flavours.

Vinay Health Home close to Phanaswadi in Girgaum started in 1940 as a basic eatery. Today it has turned into a swanky restaurant where the ambience is as attractive as its lip-smacking special missal.

“We are generally considered D-grade establishments by most people. So when I entered the business I decided that I would provide traditional Marathi fare in air-conditioned comfort,” says owner Sumukha Tembe. But he is unhappy about the fact that the Maharashtrian community itself does not value its cuisine enough. “They refuse to shell out Rs20 for a batata vada. But they’re willing to pay a lot more for an idli in an air-conditioned Udipi restaurant.”

Girgaum residents, however, love the fare at this restaurant. “We go for the special misal, peas pattice and sabudana vada. Farali (food meant for fasting days) takes a long time to cook, so it is easier to walk into a Maharashtrian restaurant for a meal,” says Shilpa Ganpatey, a retired home-maker. The thalipeeth, puri-bhaji, amti, and Maharashtrian curry with rice are also popular.

Girgaum has other such restaurants serving authentic Marathi food. Tambe and Panshikar have stuck to the traditional fare. Panshikar is famous for its pohe. Another place, called Kolhapuri Chivda, has the best thalipeeth in town, apart from a range of chivdas.

Beyond Girgaum, there’s Mama Kane in Dadar, the oldest Marathi food joint. This year it celebrates its 100th year. “We serve a typical thali containing varan bhat, polis, vegetables and potato curry,” says owner Mukund Kane.

Mama Kane once enjoyed great popularity, situated as it is right outside Dadar (West) station. But its business fell by half once the flyover sprang up outside its doors. Two other restaurants in Dadar have changed with the times: Aaswad and Prakash.

Aaswad, at the Shivaji Park corner, began as a no-frills eatery but has transformed into a spacious, air-conditioned restaurant. Sauryakant Sardoshi, who now runs Aaswad, is a chartered accountant but left his job to give a new face to the family business.

Today, Aaswad serves many new-fangled Marathi snacks to attract younger crowds. Aaswad specialities include zunka and bhaji bhakar. Masala bhat, steamed modaks and seasonal items such as ambe dal, aamras puri, kairee panha and karanjis made of wet coconut are becoming hot sellers. “We have inherited an excellent cuisine, but youngsters don’t know about it,” says Sardoshi.

One restaurant that has managed to maintain traditions and serve consistently good food for over four decades is Prakash in Dadar. Perhaps that’s because the Joglekars, who own it, have stuck to their restaurant business and nothing else all these years. Prakash has a limited menu but the food is excellent. “Their farali food is the best. This is one of the few places where you can get sanja, bhagar (varalyache tandul) -- typical Pune Brahmin food,” says 69-year-old Manik Damle, a Shivaji Park resident.

Authentic Marathi fare

Prakash
Specialities: Sanja, bhagar (varalyache tandul) — typical Pune Brahmin food.
Where: Dadar

Aaswad
Specialities: Zunka-bhakri, kairee panha and karanjis made of wet coconut.
Where: Shivaji Park

Vinay Health Home 
Specialities: Misal, peas pattice, and sabudana vada.
Where: Girgaum
Panshikar Specialities: Farali food and pohe.
Where: Girgaum