REVEALED: Is the Best Indian food available in London?

Unlike expats from other countries, the Indian diaspora in London has no reason to miss authentic Indian food if we go by a recent revelation made by a celebrated Indian chef to a Bloomberg news reporter. According to said chef, “Indian food in London is better than anything available in Mumbai and New Delhi.” While you try to digest that piece of information, here’s more. While some of the chefs we spoke to admitted that London may beat us in the procurement of the best and freshest Indian produce, it still has a long way to go before it can lay claim to the ‘London serves better Indian food’ honour. We spoke to chefs, restaurateurs, a food critic and globe trotters to find out where they stand in the debate of us/vs them.

Indian food in London showcases a limited repertoire of Indian cusine

Chef Paul Kinny, Culinary Director Bellona Hospitality, says, “The whole world knows that UK, London specifically, has embraced Indian cuisine like no place in the world; to such an extent that forget scones and Shepherd’s Pie you have more British people appreciating the humble chicken tikka masala. However, to follow this up with such a broad and defining statement would be an oversight as it would mean ignoring the wonderful Indian food we continue to relish in the by lanes of cities like Lucknow, Varanasi or the efforts of home chefs who are trying hard to sustain age-old recipes and cooking traditions. While one could say that the focus on Indian food might be a lot more in London versus New Delhi and Mumbai even, it would be unfair to refer to it as “better”. The Indian food in London is curated for their local diner’s palate, and showcases strongly a limited repertoire of what I know as Indian cuisine. The perception of Chicken Tikka Masala, Biryani, Dosa, Naan and other Indian breads being Indian food is correct but once again.

My favourite Indian dish/restaurant in Mumbai: Is the humble Seekh Kebab at Kebab Corner at Intercontinental Marine Drive.

I also enjoy the food at: Kebab Factory and Indian Accent in New Delhi.

‘It’s difficult to match the standard of flavours in   India’

Ishaan Bahl, co-owner, 145 in Kalaghoda and whose family runs Khyber
While there is a fantastic infusion of Western and Indian flavours in the food presented in Britain, I don’t believe anything can match the standard of flavours and produce available in India. The flavour of the spices and curries take on another dimension in the country compared to the food in the UK which by comparison is presented and plated in a more interesting and diverse manner.
My favourite dish/restaurant back home is: Khyber will always be my favourite Indian restaurant — the Paneer Korma is to die for!

‘Quality of Indian food is far superior here’

Sheetal Mafatlal, businesswoman
I like Jamavar and have also been to Vineet Bhatia’s Rasoi and his previous restaurant and the one in Geneva. While the food is excellent in London, in my opinion Indian food is far superior in India.
My favourite Indian dish/restaurant back home is: Trishna in Mumbai and Indian Accent in Delhi.

‘Indian food in London is better than in India, consistency and fresh produce take it a notch up’

Chhaya Momaya, image consultant and life coach
I would agree 100 per cent with the statement. You get such fabulous Indian food that I don’t feel the need to carry any from back home or travel with a Khansama. Since they source the best Indian produce, even their Undhiyu tastes better than what you get in Mumbai. The quality of oil that they use and even the mangoes that they get are excellent. My favourite restaurant in London  is chef Vineet Bhatia’s Rasoi. And while Jamavar is very nice, it’s not as good as Rasoi.

My favourite dish/restaurant back home is: When in Mumbai, I enjoy the kadhi, rajma and chawal from Ziya in Oberoi.

‘London does have the finest upscale Indian restaurants’

Rashmi Uday Singh, Indian author and food critic
London, thanks to its Raj connection has nurtured a tradition of great upscale Indian restaurants. Of course, the balti ones in Southhall continue too. Some years ago I was invited to NYC to be in the panel discussion on the global scene of Indian restaurants around the world. On the panel were Mahur Jaffrey, Mimi Sheraton and Danny Meyer. And for sure at that time London led the world in the Indian restaurant scene. NYC was lousy and Paris the worst. Since in India we have the luxury of Indian food home cooking (be it us or moms or khansamas) we never used to go to restaurants to eat Indian food. It was always Chinese, ‘continental’ or the heavy, creamy north Indian fare. It’s only recently that our attention has shifted to authentic regional Indian food in restaurants. But we could do with far more. We do have some superb Indian food restaurants. ITC has done a brilliant job of being the custodian of Indian cuisines be it the South Indian Dakshin or the Avadhi Dumpukht. Zorawar Kalra (Masala Library, Farzi Cafe), Chef Floyd Cardoz (Bombay Canteen) have begun to evolve Indian cuisine. Karavalli in Bengaluru,  Southern Spice in Chennai serve up authentic flavours of the Western coast and South. But by and large London does have the finest upscale restaurants, be it Amaya owned by the Camellia Punjabi sisters or Srijith Pillai’s Quillon. Both Michelin starred.

‘Great Indian produce translates into better Indian food’

Farrokh Khambata,  restaurateur and chef 
Sadly, I tend to agree. It’s for one simple reason — All the best produce from India, and Sri Lanka gets exported. In India, we chefs get the second line of spices and meats. Also, for fusion and progressive Indian food there is a huge gap of global produce made available in India. In most International cities such as Dubai, London, New York and Singapore, the world’s best produce find its way there.

‘Nothing beats Indian food back home’

Maheep Kapoor, jewellery designer
Indian food in Delhi is awesome and so is the seafood in Mumbai and Goa. No place can touch that.