STYLE DEBATE: Mumbai vs Delhi
Mumbai (inset) Nachiket Barve; (right) Delhi (inset) Rina Dhaka
Designer Nachiket Barve makes for a case for Mumbai's irreverent spirit, Rina Dhaka roots for Delhi's charm steeped in legacies....
While Mumbai has often been labelled as India's glamour capital, Delhi has always been synonymous with larger-than-life Indian couture. If Mumbai lays emphasis on achievement and work ethics, Delhi nourishes the exuberant flamboyance of our legacies. Predominantly the finance capital celebrates individuality whereas our nation's capital thrives on the politics of label slavery. Both cities have constructed a fashion landscape with their unique flavours and integrity. We get Bombay boy Nachiket Barve to argue in favour of Mumbai and Rina Dhaka to share her take on Delhi's cumulative style playground.
'Mumbai celebrates imperfection'
Nachiket Barve
Mumbai is the melting pot of myriad cultures and it respects you for what you've made of yourself and for your capabilities and identity. There's a certain je ne sais quoi and a hint of irreverence about Bombay style. It's not about where you stay but what you do that translates into fashion and makes it exciting. It is a night owl as a city which influences how women dress, you could be in a maxi with biker boots and taking an auto at 2 am. Also, it's less judgemental in terms of public gaze.
(From L-R) A look from Monisha Jaising’s bridal campaign; Sonakshi Sinha in Falguni & Shane Peacock; A model in a Nachiket Barve creation; Kareena Kapoor Khan mixes high street with luxe finds; Businesswoman Roohi Jaikishan in Gucci; International fashion consultant Rita Dhody
Besides, we don't have seasons and one could pull out pieces and mix them up all year long. Clothes have to work here and they are never ornamental - it could be a long neck piece or a scarf, which make it utilitarian. As far as Bombay weddings go, we don't have the luxury of the foggy jasmine nights and one's limited by the weather. People are usually unfussy with regards to clothing. Also, given our weather, one's hair goes flat in a matter of 10 seconds.
The city celebrates imperfection and perfection is never the aim. One could be wearing an heirloom jacket with a pair of ripped jeans or a long crushed silk dress worn with big hoop earrings and nifty sunglasses. The city has professionalism built into its bones and everyone is on the go which reflects in people's style. One sees a great melange of high and low elbowing each other in city and there are no tony colonies - you could be the biggest film star and your gym could be next to a paanwala shop. The city is a fluid organism and not structured or rigid. Our filmstars too are working professionals and very grounded, they spend days slaving away in studios and there's no dynastic entitlement.
Delhi is a departure from what we do and more ornate pieces appeal to Delhi customers. Bombay is the style capital where trends are set and a whole set of news-makers and head-turners are based here. Style runs across genres - from a fashion educated customer to a fisherwoman, who accessorises her hair with flowers and wears her anklets in a specific way. It's democratic and has empowered people and celebrates individualistic expression. There's confidence and an attitude, which embodies a sense of freedom.
'Delhi epitomises joie de vivre'
Rina Dhaka
(From L-R) An ensemble from JJ Valaya x Alpana & Neeraj runway show; Patine; A look by Payal Pratap; Delhi-based style maven Pernia Qureshi; An ensemble by Rina Dhaka; A look from Gauri & Nainika x Ashish N Soni runway show
Delhi experiences all the four seasons and hence one sees jaamewars, rare heirloom pieces and Lucknowi chikankari and mid-season chiffons. Even though our weather is hard on us, it gives us a fashion advantage. When I see actors in Bombay wearing leather jackets, I find it funny. Also, the North Indian Punjabi culture celebrates the spirit of joie de vivre. It's all about food, having fun and checking each other out. The overall focus is on self improvement. Delhi has its own set of style influencers - Celina and Ajay Bijli are quite stylish. I admire Romi Chopra and love Madhu Trehan's sense of style.
Jewellery designer Radhika Kapoor, Shagun and Arvind Khanna are extremely chic. Also, Delhi has an array of amazing architectural backdrops, I remember when Yves Saint Laurent came here when I was working backstage at the age of 18. It was the most incredible show at Purana Quila. I wish something like that happened now because it's imperative to connect history with the future.
Delhi weddings never let that sense of Punjabi-ness go out. Weddings here are spectacular, but having said that, there's a fine line between elegance and over the top vulgarity. While some people opt for old school weddings with a modern touch, others take it too far. The younger generation like my kids and their contemporaries only want to wear designer brands like Balmain. I never get the craze for labels like Supreme. Moncler is another big rage. They love overly embroidered Gucci pieces. It's a 100 per cent head-to-toe designer generation. I always mix my clothes and never in my life wore a head-to-toe designer brand.
While Mumbai has a sense of casual ease, Delhi has many pockets of people and different groups like the monsoon wedding club, and then there are Punjabis and Sikhs - always impeccably turned out. Sikh women are ahead of the style curve and there's not a crease on their clothes, from their juttis to jewellery - everything is elegant and well-coordinated. In Delhi, you have to make an effort and a section of individuals are always in a tight dress and sport a platinum blonde mane with extra kajal, which I feel is the ugly part of fashion.
There was a time when Mumbai men were not so hip but it's not the case with the young generation here. It's interesting to note that a Bombay client will pick different pieces of your collection but someone from Delhi may just warm up to a predictable pattern.