The Dapper Darzi: Bespoke menswear is here to stay

A crisp Italian-cut charcoal gray jacket paired with equally flattering contemporary Jodhpurs and hand-woven moccasins in black calf leather…that could be your look crafted by one of India's new-age designers who are giving a contemporary twist to traditional silhouettes and custom-fit clothing. Small design boutiques are slowly gaining in prominence even while Raymond's made-to-measure still remains the go-to choice in India. Out of the box thinkers have carved a niche clientele for themselves, changing the way men's fashion is perceived. The process can be tedious and involving, but the result is worth the wait. Here's a look at some leaders in the field:

Bombay Shirt Company
Bombay Shirt Company offers an online ordering option. Everything, from fabric and fit to collar, cuff and colour can be customised. Owner Akshay Narvekar has an eye for edgy modern designs and his two-year-old startup exudes it in every weave. "Every man must be given the option to channel his creativity into what he wears and we offer just that," he says. Working with Indian as well Italian weaves, Akshay's designs have an international-contemporary feel with a price point that suits every customer. BSC has also whipped up capsule collections, where a portion of the proceeds from sales will be donated to a charity of the 'influencer's' choice.
Must have: Bandhgala and club collars in good-old linen and the Che Kurrien collection
Contact: www.bombayshirts.com/ 08879621003

SS Homme
Sandeep Gonsalves and Sarah Sheikh of SS Homme design for functionality, contemporising traditional silhouettes without tempering the air of distinction that is characteristic to formal wear. "Menswear was an obvious choice for us, we love minimalist design," says Sarah. In two years, the duo has moved from an innocuous studio in Khar to a flagship store in Bandra. Sandeep says: "All fabrics used are sourced from international manufacturers such as Huddersfield, Scabal, Dormeuil, Loro Piana, Soktas and so on. It takes eight days to procure the material, and this is then followed up with three fittings."
Must have: Colour-blocked suit jackets, camel-wool cashmere over coat and custom leather bags
Contact: info@sshomme.in, (022)2651 1738

Looks by SS Homme

Mr Button
Mr Button has recently joined the online retail bandwagon and is still the go-to for bespoke Nehru jackets and perfectly-cut trousers. Says co-founder Akshat Singh: "The fit, structure and uncompromised construction is what makes any custom-made apparel stand out." The store offers the head-to-toe look, but clean cuts and a contemporary take with a hint of Indianness is what makes Mr Button trousers a must have for the urban chic. A typical ordering process begins with a phone call and a series of measurements, consultations and fittings. "We ensure the same personal attention to each client, be it in any city," says Akshat.
Must have: Gajpur rider linen Jodhpuri and Glasgow Noon Nehru jacket
Contact: hello@mrbutton.in, (0120) 4333751

The creators of Mr. Button with their designs

Bodice
Bow ties are the new must-haves for those who like some pow-wow chic. Ruchika Sachdeva, a Vogue India fashion awardee and owner of Bodice, Delhi says, "It is about standing out and expressing oneself without trying too hard." Ruchika's designs play with ideas of modernity, androgyny and timelessness while reinventing indigenous Indian materials. "Our bow ties are a lot of fun… (they) add just about that extra element to any formal occasion and we also do matching pocket squares to take it a notch higher," she says. The shop also retails interesting products like Moleskine diaries, Lomography cameras and Squareloop handcrafted bags.
Must have: Deconstructed bow tie and matching pocket square.
Contact: info@bodice.co.in, 09650071122

Ruchika Sachdeva (C) and her designs

Cuero
Naman Shah of Cuero from Pune works exclusively with leather and has revived the art of shoemaking with fourth generation artisans. Naman believes bespoke fashion is also about comfort. "We hand-cut, hand-sew and hand burnish each pair meticulously, assuring the perfect fit that lasts for years." Naman developed an eye for personalised style as a boy when he accompanied his father to work and insisted on also wearing formals. "Cuero happened because I felt a strong need for customised shoe designs in India." By 22, he had his own made in India label. Leather of the finest quality mixed with some very unusual material makes Cuero stand apart.
Must have: Tan oxfords with hand weaving and a classic wing tip in black.
Contact: info@cuero.in

Designer Naman Shah and shoes designed by Cuero

a.k.a bespoke
Tailor-made shoes and bags make a firm statement. Karan Berry of a.k.a Bespoke, says, "In this age of mass production, our products humbly bow down to the age-old Indian pride, karigari." Karan and partner Aeiman Jarwala show the customers designs, take measurements, design the shoe, make a mould, have trials, show different techniques and only then make the final pair. It could take two months to finish a single pair, but they make it worth the wait.
Must have: 'Gatsy' two-tone derby shoes and a classic leather bag.
Contact: design@akabespoke.com

Karan Berry & Aeiman Jarwala (R) and shoes by a.k.a bespoke (L)