Threads of innovation

It wouldn't be inaccurate to say that Pabiben Lakhman Rabari is synonymous with Rabari embroidery. The nomadic artisan and Gujarat's first female craft entrepreneur has been instrumental in taking her community, Dhebaria Rabari's embroidery — characterised by chain stitches and mirror work — from their haunts to international markets. In fact, one of Pabiben's creations, the eponymous 'Pabi Bag', is a runaway success both in India and abroad.

The 31-year-old artisan's journey to fame and success hasn't been smooth though. For as long as one can remember, the Dhebaria Rabaris had a tradition that required girls as young as 15-16 to start embroidering garments and home decor items for themselves and their families — collective 'wealth' that would be carried by a bride to her marital home. "Girls would get married as young children. As they grew, they'd start embroidery work, which would take years to complete. Only then would they feel comfortable entering their marital home," says Pabiben. "Sometimes, the girls would be 35 by the time their embroidery work got completed." However, with time, the community banned the practice of women creating embroidered works. While this move was celebrated, it was also a harbinger of the death of a beautiful craft.

Time for innovation

"When the elders of the Dhebaria community banned the making and wearing of embroidery, the women invented Hari Jari, a machine application of ready-made materials," shares Radhi Parekh, director of ARTISANS' gallery.

Pabiben started conceptualising designs that could be created on sewing machines. Today, she leads 50-60 women from her community to adapt Dhebaria work for the contemporary market. Their repertoire consists of a variety of bags, totes, clutches and pouches.

Judy Frater, founder director of Somaiya Kala Vidya, who has worked with Pabiben, recalls: "One day, when l was about to take a trip to the US, I told Pabiben that some day she should make a bag for me. She made it before my departure so I took it with me. People loved it so much that we decided to produce and market more such bags. I named it the 'Pabi Bag', and the rest is history."

Recognition and support

They say that behind every successful man, there's a woman. In Pabiben's case, it is her husband, Lakhman Bhai Rabari, who has stood by her. "Initially, people would badger me saying 'Your wife will leave the community', but I would retort, 'I trust her'," says a proud Lakhman Bhai. "Today, those same people are proud of her success and the changes she has brought to our community."

Pabiben, who proudly shows a photograph of herself next to Prime Minister Narendra Modi on Women's Day, is the recipient of a national award for outstanding performance in rural business. Success and fame follow her but the real change can be seen in the homes of her team of artisan women in Kutch, who switch between sewing work and housework at their own pace, cherishing creativity and financial independence.