With the traditionally hand-woven fabric being replaced by power-looms and hand-drawn prints giving way to detailed digital prints, numerous craftsmen in rural India are struggling to make ends meet.
However, media reports on the plight of weavers in villages around Varanasi has kickstarted a movement to provide sustainable livelihoods to the artisans while reviving a dying rural art. Concerned that the handloom industry was headed for extinction, the Taj Group of hotels, resorts and palaces decided to use handwoven Benarasi sarees as staff uniforms four years ago.
“Within this framework, we are looking to create a sustainable platform for the livelihoods of the Varanasi weavers,” said Gaurav Pokhariyal, general manager, Tal Mahal Palace, Mumbai where the revamped version of the staff uniforms was launched on Wednesday.
Mentoring the project is Ratna Krishna Kumar who said that a lack of awareness about the art and the presence of unscrupulous middlemen had led the weavers to poverty. Besides, the number of weavers had also dwindled with some migrating to cities in search of alternate employment options.
It was an uphill task for the team to first identify the weavers and then engage them in a trust building dialogue. “We took care of their basic needs before broaching the subject of sustainable employment,” said Ratna. She recalls a visit to the homes of the weavers once the initiative was kicked off. “The pictures of the Taj staff wearing the woven Benarasi sarees were put up right next to the pictures of gods,” she added.
Mumbai-based designer Jay Ramrakhiani, has been roped in to design the sarees. He encourages the weavers to continue with traditional methods of weaving while including contemporary elements. “We also ensure that integrity is not compromised,” said Ramrakhiani, adding that yarn is provided to the weavers after being weighed. When the finished sarees are brought back, they are weighed again and immediate payment is made.
