Scotland is known around the world for bagpipes, Scotch whisky, haggis and tartan kilts. But now it is trying to protect a less obviously Scottish treasure: chicken tikka masala. A chef from Glasgow claims he invented the curry dish, and is pressing the European Union to give it “Protected Designation of Origin” status, alongside the likes of Champagne, Parma Ham and Greek Feta cheese.
The Ali family, owners of Shish Mahal restaurant in Glasgow, said they came up with the creamy, mildly spicy curry in the 1970s to please the Scots, but then it went on to become the most popular dish in British restaurants.
“Chicken tikka masala was invented in this restaurant, we used to make chicken tikka, and one day a customer said, ‘I’d take some sauce with that, this is a bit dry’,” said Ahmed Aslam Ali, 64, founder of Shish Mahal. “We thought we’d better cook the chicken with some sauce. So from here we cooked chicken tikka with the sauce that contains yogurt, cream, spices.
Although it is difficult to prove definitively where it originated, the dish is generally regarded as a curry adapted to suit Western tastes.
And a Glasgow lawmaker has taken steps to gain EU legal protection for the curry, that recognises it as a local speciality. “Tikka masala is perhaps one of the earliest examples of the modern fashion for fusion cuisine,” said Mohammad Sarwar, who tabled a motion in the House of Commons earlier this month calling for EU protection. “I am very hopeful that the EU will give chicken tikka masala the official stamp of Glasgow origin,” said the Labour MP for Glasgow Central.
Supporters of the campaign point to the fact that former foreign minister Robin Cook once described it as a crucial part of British culture.
“Chicken tikka masala is now a true British national dish, not only because it is the most popular, but because it is a perfect illustration of the way Britain absorbs and adapts external influences,” Cook said in a 2001 speech on British identity.
If London decides to support the campaign and send a request to the European Commission, the body will, as a next step, examine whether the application is admissible.
