How Isha Ambani has set a new precedent for modern Indian brides with her Valentino lehenga

Comfort and craftsmanship seemed to be the two key factors on Isha Ambani’s mind as she cut a fine figure in a custom-made Valentino ensemble for her reception, which was held last week. Teaming the gold voluminous lehenga (handcrafted in the storied atelier) with a matching dupatta, she completed the look with a statement necklace, maang teeka and earrings. Keeping her make-up classic, she let the lehenga do all the talking. While for her other wedding functions, she had picked the revered design litany of Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, Sabyasachi and Manish Malhotra, her reception outfit was kind of a surprise and also a breath of fresh air. It also spoke volumes about her personal style — relaxed, fuss-free yet not compromising on savoir-faire.

Today, it’s not uncommon for Indian brides to get international couturiers to custom-make their desi ensembles. While brides in the past have been wearing gowns and pantsuits from Elie Saab, Marchesa and Zubair Murad for their pre and post-wedding bashes, the last five years have seen more and more new-age brides embracing international designers to custom-make their Indian ensembles. Stylist Divyak D’Souza observes, “Valentino’s designs are venerated and celebrated in haute couture space. Isha’s outfit looked good and maybe it’s time for Indian designers to shake up their design game.” 

Indian couture kings have stuck to a winning formula for decades now and not incorporated new visions. Maybe this way a lot of them would be motivated to think their brand strategy for the long term.”

BEAUTIFULLY INDIANISED

The toughest part about Indian fashion is the construction of the choli. And Valentino’s design team did it beautifully keeping the bust traditional while the sleeves looked modern. Stylist Isha Bhansali hails it as a couture coup. She says, “It’s great and impressive that Isha picked Valentino for her reception.  Moreover, it looks lightweight and the fabric, as well as the embroidery, look stunning. What I like about it is the fact that they could have come up with an Indo-Western fusion ensemble, but they’ve done it with a statement border and completely Indianised it. Perhaps she wanted something international and not something predictable from a Middle-Eastern designer.”

Post her wedding, Sonam K Ahuja had opted for a Ralph and Russo lehenga-choli for her Cannes outing, which was a refreshing sight in a sea of Arabic gowns and androgynous pantsuits. The fun bride’s mehendi impeccably complemented the embroidery of the gown adding to an interesting desi accent to this look. “Sonam’s Ralph and Russo was on point. She looked pretty in a gold-on-gold palette and the outfit dulled the maximalist effect of the accessories,” adds Divyak. 

COUTURE TALES FROM THE PAST

At her wedding reception, Nirlon heiress Sheetal Mafatlal had opted for an haute couture lehenga designed by Donatella Versace. “It’s been the first and only traditional Indian wedding ensemble that Versace created till date,” says Sheetal.

It’ll be interesting to see if this becomes a trend in the coming weddings, too.