LIFESTYLE
If there was ever a time to take the baked bun seriously, it would be now. Moving away from the 'fast food' tag, burgers are now a gourmet creation. Hallelujah!
When I was little, my older cousins would ferry me to a very ‘happening’ burger joint smack in the middle of ‘downtown’ Calcutta. What we ate there, day after day, year after year, till that place finally cowered under the pressure of time, were burgers. You could only choose a vegetarian burger and a non-vegetarian burger, and possibly request them to ditch the lettuce, or add more cheese, but that’s about it. One massive burger with milkshake (or a large tumbler of iced Coke if there were no parents around) was a big treat. It’s also one of the reasons why I have always favoured the burger. Its competitor, the quintessential pizza, never did have the chutzpah in my books (yes, despite all the fancy toppings that have come all the way from Italy and god-knows-from-where-else to our country).
Enough with the long back story — the fact of the matter is that one can never take the burger for granted. The buns (pun unintended) have got to be perfect, and by that we mean soft enough to give into a bite and strong enough to hold the ingredients without turning into a mush of failure. The meat, the sauces, the hint of pickle or coleslaw if any, all have to be perfect. Anything less or anything more and what you have is a shoddy imitation. What you find at various cafés and so called fast food chains might be called so, but burgers they are not.
What’s even more fantastic is the way this particular food product has evolved over the years. From quick and simple to innovative and gourmet — a burger’s journey is far more exotic than its tales of origin.
And today, you can head to a nearby place and actually eat one that will not taste like what’s available at another restaurant or delicatessen.
Classically gourmet
The burgers at The Polo Club (Oberoi Hotel) are something that every fan must check out at least once. Priced quite steeply, these burgers aren’t unique in appearance but superlative as far as the choices of ingredients and techniques are concerned.
The Tenderloin Burger is embellished with balsamic glazed onions, pickles and Gruyère cheese and is served with chips on the side. The meat, perfectly grilled, and glazed onions add the required crunch and sweetness to this dish. It’s also one of the restaurant’s most-loved burgers.
The Chermoula Spiced Lamb Burger is yet another favourite where the use of the African marinade is quite a nice touch, even if it does require a little acclimatisation. One of the other burgers that one must try out is the Jerk Spiced Chicken Burger where a breast of chicken is crumb-fried and spiked with gherkin and jalapeño tartare. If you notice, most of the burgers use a classical approach. What sets them apart is the use of high-quality ingredients, which needless to add, makes these burgers stand out in a crowd.
The Polo Club
Mixed vegetable burger: Emmenthal, home made relish with tomato and zucchini
Jerk spiced chicken burger: Crumb fried breast of chicken served with gherkin and jalapeño tartare
Tenderloin burger: Medium rare patty, topped with Balsamic glazed onion, pickles and Gruyere cheese
Chermoula spiced lamb burger: Lamb mince patty, spiced with Chermoula marinade and additionally flavoured with oregano, mint, coriander and cumin.
Price: Rs 625 (Mixed vegetable burger) and Rs 725 (for the non-vegetarian options)
When Monkey Bar opened, it was the city’s first official gastro-pub and with their very innovative menu came the innovative burger. After having served more than 10,000 burgers (as reported) in just above a year, they are hosting a burger festival. Not with 20 different varieties of burger but just eight. Eight creative and delicious burgers. This is possibly the only place in the city, as far as our knowledge goes, where you can actually eat a square burger. For diners with OCD (for example, yours truly), the Seafood Slider, a burger that fits between the two index fingers and thumbs, gets extra points.
And finally the mother, or can we say father, of all burgers at this festival — the Gastro Burger. This one has aged beef that has been smoked gently, mushroom ketchup, aged Gruyère, blue cheese mayonnaise, carmelised onions, Dijon mustard, pixie dust and love potion. And yes, it’s served with chips that have a hint of truffle oil and slaw on the side. And all of that is packed in between two brioche buns, which is probably a little denser than you are used to, making it a fantastic meal by itself.
Also, what you do get to buy at just Rs 95 a pair for being a loyalist is the mini Mobar Macaron. This French pastry has never been so lucky — with white chocolate, salted caramel ganache, red velvet cake and fresh mint creating a perfect-looking mini burger.
Monkey Bar
Go Veg Burger: A spiced potato, carrot, green pea, kidney bean and cheese patty. Crumbed and fried; served with fries and slaw.
Square Breakfast: Beef patty and a sunny side up within a square bun with bacon rashers and grilled tomato. Served with skinny fries and baked beans.
Breaking Bad inspired Heisen-Burger: Freshly baked sesame bun, extra crispy fried chicken breast and spicy sriracha mayo with fries and slaw on the side.
Seafood Sliders: Prawn, crab-meat and fish patty that sits prettily between the buns and is greased with old bay mayo and grain mustard sauce. This one is served with chunks of potato wedges and cucumber slaw.
The Gastro Burger: Lightly smoked aged beef, mushroom ketchup, aged Gruyère, blue cheese mayo, caramelised onions, Dijon mustard in a brioche bun. It’s served with truffle-scented fries and slaw.
The burger festival ends on December 14
Prices: Rs 320 and upwards; Macarons are for Rs 95 for two
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