Pangot, where nature merges with the divine in Uttarakhand

It's hard to explain how the aura of these snow clad himalayan peaks makes one feel closer to God, the surreal effect they have when one is in their midst. It was late afternoon in Pangot, the clouds were dark towards the horizon and the Nanda Devi massif was kind enough to give us the occasional glimpse. We had reached our destination, Pangot in the Land of Gods.

Our journey from Delhi to Pangot had begun at an ungodly time of 11 pm, we halted for a cup of much needed slumber-breaking early morning coffee at Mallital, in Nainital and headed straight to Pangot via Bara Patthar thereafter. The drive took us through dense Cedar forests of the Naina peak range and Kilbury and across the slopes of the Pangot valley that offers views of towering snow peaks and mighty waterfalls. After a while, when the valley broadens, the view of the Pangot village against the backdrop of these peaks is jaw dropping. We knew now  that our decision to visit Pangot was a good one and what unfolded turned out to be one of our better travel experiences.

Located in the Nainital district of Uttarakhand, about 15 km from the town of Nainital, this picturesque hamlet nestled amongst dense cedar and rhododendron trees is possibly the most unspoilt place in this region. The population, mostly consisting local Kumaonis, is sparse living in about 200 homes that are spread over an area of 40 Sq km (approx.). It also offers unparalleled, panoramic views of the Nanda Devi range. Towards the north of this quaint mountain village you can see the majestic Trishul, Nanda Ghunti and Nanda Devi range and towards the south you can see the plains of Haldwani along with the Kosi river, albeit not very clearly. 

My earlier travel experiences bear testimony to the fact that the best way to get information about a place is from the locals rather than the travel/hotel agents. And history repeated itself. After some rest, when I ventured out of our resort, over numerous 'chais' some enlightened village elders told me about short walks around Pangot that are great for bird watching; they also regaled me with anecdotes and age-old tales of the village. Not a bad start to the trip! 

After an early brunch we set off for a three-hour trek that culminates at Nainital via the Naina Peak range. And all too soon, to our delight we spotted the minla, lammergeier and Khalij pheasant in their pomp, chirping away to glory. En route, we also came across some ghorals and a barking deer too. As we continued hiking, the incredible views of the ravines which ran deep, the sweet smell of oak, pines and rhododendrons combined with the whistling sound of an early-morning September wind invigorated our senses.

After about 45 minutes of gradual ascent we reached the top of the first hill. There we rested for a bit and set off again to reach the precincts of Naina peak; it involved two hours of strenuous walking. Had it not been for this trail, it would have been hard for us to believe that such dense forests exist near Nainital, which is slowly becoming a concrete jungle. Wanting to return to Pangot before sunset, we decided not to go all the way to Nainital and turned back from the peak itself. But first, to re-fuel our tanks, we visited a local dhaba to devour an assortment of pakoras and washed them down with some warm tea. 

But pangs of hunger and fatigue hit us after we returned to the hotel after the day-long trek, so we ate an early dinner and were told that our vegetables were cooked from those belonging to the organic farm (next to our hotel), which grows everything from cauliflower and potatoes to peas, gourd and pumpkin. You can request chefs at most hotels, resorts and homestays here for some traditional Kumaoni food like jholi bhat, bhotua (a meat dish made from lamb intestines), palak ka kapa, gehat dal, aloo gutka, bhatt ki chudkani and madua roti.

Night presented us with unforgettable sights of Pangot bathed in the celestial light of the full moon, clouds occasionally kissing the lower hills while the cool Himalayan breeze was blowing all around. You can't experience this in more commercial destinations like Nainital, where life kick starts in the wee hours of the morning, after which the cacophony of honking cars engulf the shoreline of the Naini lake.

Blessed with several perennial and seasonal streams and rivers, Pangot offers lovely views of sparkling waters gurgling down the mountains and a 30-40km descent takes you to several grand lakes–Saat Tal, Bhimtal, Khurpa Tal and others where you can enjoy a whole range of adventure activities from boating and paragliding to rock climbing and rappelling.

Pangot also serves as an ideal base for short, easy treks– like the one to Naina Peak via Kilbury–as well as long treks to Namik, Pindari and Nanda Devi, meant for those who enjoy the challenge and adventure. Night Safaris, organized by travel companies and resorts, are a popular way of getting a glimpse of wild animals like Leopards, Panthers, Barking deers, Himalayan bears and so on.

On our last day in Pangot, we visited the Ram and Devi temples and a "pujari"told us about how this region was once a hot bed of unique, stone-sculpture activity during the Gupta period (11th -12th century). A fact that is evident from the various artifacts and statues one sees in the temples. After some local sight-seeing we headed back to Delhi by road; the trip was short, but we absolutely loved every bit of it. I felt pampered in its solitude and environs, as they transport you to a bygone era when sitting idle by the side of a stream or lying down on the forest floor doing nothing, except gazing at the sky was not derided as "wasting time", when life was more simple and human beings more humane.