After Hrs explores the emergence of technical fabrics and cocoon-like silhouettes...
The last few seasons have seen designers toying with ideas of protective dressing, creating technical fabrics and cocoon-like silhouettes. From Prada’s nylon rubber boots to the metallic-heating resistant balaclavas seen at Gucci to the quilted coats (with detachable pregnancy pillows and bumbags) seen at Rick Owens — the overall message has been of utilitarian chic and protection. Also, it’s been a season of unique collaborations — from Moncler collaborating with the likes of Valentino, Craig Green and Simone Rocha to Sacai x The North Face. It may not be entirely off the mark to assume that fashion is increasingly becoming survivalist given factors like environmental hazards, socio-political mayhem, refugee crisis and by large — the unpredictability of life. We got designers and stylists to analyse this macro trend.
Designer Rimzim Dadu, who’s carved her own niche by creating clothing out of wires sees it as a form of self-expression. “Women are strong and my clothes may look like armours on them but they are actually fluid so there’s a balance between structure and fluidity. Having said that, the puffer jackets have been around for a bit and given Moncler’s recent collaboration, the larger idea is one that of self-protection,” says Rimzim.
Surface is the future
Also, such mixed textiles last longer which adds to their commercial appeal. Stylist Divyak D’Souza observes, “The silhouette innovation is pretty much exhausted and the future lies in texture and fabric experimentation. The industrial fabrics serve as both trendy and functional.”
Great visual aesthetic
In India, designers like Dhruv Kapoor have showcased metallic puffer jackets, which not just have a reflective visual appeal, but also radiate a sense of protecting one’s identity. “Cotton alone won’t last unless blended with nylon which imparts longevity. The PVC coated textiles elevate the life of each garment and the light reflecting appeal of the fabric makes it visually appealing,” says he.
Fashion’s moved on with tech
Malini Banerji, Fashion Director, Elle India attributes it to the rapid tech evolution, the IG TV update on Instagram being the latest case in point. “Now there’s a push on quilting techniques and the coming seasons will see more of it,” says Malini.
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